Shampooing 101

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To Shampoo or not to Shampoo?

 One of the dominant aspects of highly textured hair is that its very nature predispositions it to being somewhat dry.  Fundamentally speaking, this is because the sebum that is secreted through the scalp has the task of lubricating hair strands that aren't stick straight in shape, but curly or wavy instead.  It's also charged with lubricating strands that are gravity defying- growing up and out, and not straight down.  

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 So, sebum has a trickier task traveling through curls than it would have if it were a straighter medium.  As a result, our hair needs the human element i.e. our hands and fingers, in distributing lubrication throughout the entire length of our hair strands.  

Because finding the balance between well-moisturized hair and dry or thirsty hair is a delicate one; a lot of naturals opt to employ the use of conditioners as their shampoo, in the interim periods before an actual cleanser is introduced to the hair.  This is because a large number of shampoos are full of harsh and stripping surfactants that thoroughly remove everything from the hair strands- including the precious oils we work so hard to regulate.  

Wanna read something interesting?  Yeah? 


When I first began to care for my hair, I was extremely eager to learn about the history of shampoos.  
Yep, I really was!
Actually, I can obsessive about new stuff.

 But, what I learned was that quickly put; modern day shampoos arose out of the Industrial Revolution.  Before then, soaps were used to remove grease and dirt, but coupled with hard (mineral rich) water, soaps would also deposit a dull sheen to the hair.  Sodium lauryl sulfate was subsequently introduced to shampoos, to thoroughly cleanse the hair.

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So, what does that mean for curly haired you?  Well, since the lack of moisture is a curly person's kyrptonite, any shampoos that have sulfates in their ingredient list, most likely, will strip the hair of its moisture entirely, and contribute to dryness.  
 However, it is absolutely possible to sufficiently clean your hair without wrestling with the dryness factor.

Tip 1: Check your ingredients!  Manufacturers include sulfates because they are inexpensive lathering agents.  So, be prepared to spend a bit more money on a sulfate free product.  If your shampoo contains the following drying agents, either avoid its use, or proceed with caution.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 
 Ammonium Laureth Sulfate 
TEA Lauryl Sulfate
 Cocamidopropyl Betaine

I rarely use shampoos to clean my hair.  However, whenever I do, I only use sulfate free ones. 

Giovanni Invigorating Shampoo- Highly recommended!  I've used this throughout the course of my hair journey.

 I pay extreme attention to cleaning my scalp.  Afterwards, I concentrate on my actual hair.  I'm pretty conservative with the amount of shampoo I use, and my hair is usually clean after two bouts of the shampoo process.  

Tip 2: All shampoos aren't created equally.  Clarifying shampoos will remove product buildup while a moisturizing shampoo will gently clean the hair without entirely drying it out.  A quick way to differentiate between these two types, is that a clarifying shampoo will usually be transparent in consistency.  Moisturizing shampoos may or may not be.

Amazing Botanicals Black Soap.  An example of a nontransparent clarifier.  All natural and awesome.

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo.

  

 

There are some months when I go without shampooing my hair, and during this time, I use a diluted mixture of ACV to effectively clean my scalp and hair.  I'm a big fan of using Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) to do this.  It's an easy, cheap, and all-natural way to eliminate product buildup.  

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Tip 3:  The mixture partitions are extremely important when using ACV.  It is acidic, and therefore, can be corrosive to hair strands, so make sure you dilute your solution sufficiently.  You only need a tiny amount of this stuff:

1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar

1 full cup of H2O

Combine the water and ACV.

Apply the solution to your hair, and gently scrub your scalp to remove buildup.

 Finding a workable balance that fits your particular lifestyle is the ultimate goal, so don't be afraid to experiment.