Deep Conditioning and the Pre-poo

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I often field questions about the benefits of deep conditioning and pre-pooing hair.

"How often do you do it?"

"Which products do you use?"

"Come again?  Pre- poo??"

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The Deep Condition

In a nutshell, deep conditioning is usually done when the hair needs to be fortified with moisture or protein.  From time to time, your hair might feel dry and brittle.  You might experience excessive breakage or splitting along the hair shaft.  Usually, at this point, you can use a deep conditioning treatment to retroactively remedy those problems.  

Personally, I deep condition as a preventative measure.  I like to include it into my routine, because it allows me to reign in any damage that might be exacerbated if deep conditioning wasn't a regular part of my regimen.  I find it easier to handle a steady monthly appointment, even a slight inconvenience, than it is to deal with hair that snaps or pops from neglect that could be preventable.

 Deep conditioners are usually thick and creamy in consistency.  They are designed to penetrate the hair follicle and deposit nutrients that promote moisture retention and hair elasticity.  An increased moisture content in the hair equates to increased hair elasticity.  In layman's terms, if moisture is infused into your hair shaft, it will allow the hair strand to stretch when stressed, without snapping or breaking off.  If your hair feels and dry and brittle, then it needs moisture.  If your water based leave ins do not seem to remedy the problem, then your hair probably needs to be deep conditioned.


Other deep conditioners will have ingredients that increase strength.  These conditioners are full of proteins, which reinforce the hair structure.  Strength and elasticity are a coupled element in hair.  There needs to be a balance between the two.  You don't want your hair to be uber saturated with protein, that it causes your hair to be extremely stiff and hard.  Contrarily, you also, do not want to contend with hair that is so saturated with moisture, that it becomes too soft and mushy.  

There is a fine balance. 

Five Star product!

Tip 1.  Listen to your hair.  It will tell you what it needs.

 Tip 2. When in doubt, always err on the side of the moisturizing deep conditioner, and not the strengthener (protein).  

Tip 3. Deep conditioners might have key identifiers in their names.  Lookout for words like:

'treatment', 'masque', 'deep', 'penetrating', 'hydrating', 'strengthening', 'restorative'

When sorting through the bevy of conditioners on the market, I do the following:

1. I check the ingredients.  Always important.  Water should be the first ingredient, as it is the ultimate moisturizer for hair.  Other ingredients that promote hydration are panthenol, honey, and aloe vera.  

Protein conditioners usually include ingredients like keratin, placenta, wheat, and collagen.

My hair stopped talking to me for a while after I used this.  Lol.  Shea butter as a deep conditioner (2nd ingredient), didn't work for me.

2.  Try to avoid heavy oils like shea butter, mango butter, coco butter, mineral oils, waxes, and lanolin.  Heavy oils won't penetrate the hair, but instead, will just sit on top .
 
3.  I check the consistency.  Creaminess rules! Since I detangle with my deep conditioners, I always need them to be creamy with a lot of slip.  I can also stretch creamy products more.  

This girl's got a lot a hair.  Products need to last!

So awesome!

 Tip 4. Oils can also be applied as deep conditioners because they penetrate the follicles.  Olive, avocado, and coconut are three oils that naturally do this.

I used two avocados per month, to deep condition my hair all last year.  Messy process, but totally worth it. 

Tip 5.  I check my shrinkage (curls).  My edges curl into tight clusters when they are happily hydrated.  

How often should you treat your hair? 

 I think biweekly to once a month, should suffice.  A weekly treatment might behoove you, if your hair is wrought with breakage or severe dryness.  

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The Pre-poo

The pre-poo is the treatment you apply to your hair before you shampoo.


Pre-shampoo= pre-poo

It allows your hair to be nourished and somewhat coated, before the cleansing/stripping agents from the shampoo are introduced.

I pre-poo the night or hours before shampooing my hair. In fact, when my time is short, I couple my deep conditioning treatment with my pre- poo, and I complete both steps in one.  

You can pre poo with a variety of things:

**Penetrating Oils** my fave!
Honey
Conditioners
Yogurt
Coconut Milk
Bananas
Eggs
Avocados...


Notice anything interesting?  You can pre-poo or deep condition with the same ingredients, since the point is to fortify your hair with nutrients.  

I deep condition & pre-poo on dry air, because dry hair acts like a sponge, and soaks up more nutrients than it would if it were already saturated with water.  I also don't like a ton of steps on my wash days.  

Quick pre-poo recipe:

3 tbsp of Grapeseed oil (antioxidant/repair)
3 tbsp of Olive/Coconut/or Avocado oil (penetration)
3 tbsp of Honey (moisture)

To convert to a deep conditioner, I add:
2 ground avocados
or
2 cups of Greek Yogurt

I saturate my hair, and after 45 minutes to 1 hour under a plastic cap, I shampoo.

Stay tuned for the next post in this series; Shedding, Breakage, and Trimming.